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LOTS OF GREENERY, PREIHISTORIC FINDINGS AND ITALIAN GARDEN
Varese – Valceresio – Varese (km 35)
The round-trip itinerary begins and ends in the main town of the province, going up and down the rounded and green hills that surround one of the most beautiful valleys in the province: the Valceresio valley. From Varese we move towards Como, through to Malnate, and we veer off towards the Gaggiolo border post, to then arrive in Cantello, a village famous for its intensive asparagus cultivation (a fair is dedicated to this tasty delicacy, every year, during the month of May).
Climbing through the green woods, one discovers Viggiù, a natural belvedere over the Valceresio valley, the home of numerous artists, starting with the Longhi, famous architects in manneristic and baroque Rome.
The Butti Museum is also worthy of a visit, with its natural-size collection of plaster statues. We continue towards Besano, a small village famous for its Triassic age fossil findings (Fossils Civic Museum). We proceed towards Bisuschio with its splendid Villa Cicogna Mozzoni (XVI century, a national monument): of great value are the honours courtyard with frescoes of the Campi school and the large Italian-style garden.
Crossing Arcisate, the itinerary ends in Varese. In the historical centre we find the church of S. Vittore, reconstructed at the beginning of the XVI century in Bramante style, together with the octagonal-based X century Baptistery. Before returning to the province's main town, we pass through Induno Olona: before the "Montallegro" neighbourhood the exterior of the Castello Medici di Marignano in Frascarolo is visible (XVI century private building). The small Civic Natural Science Museum is also of interest.
LAKE AND RIVER BANKS RICH IN HISTORY AND SPLENDID ARCHITECTURES
The Lago Maggiore and the Fiume Ticino (km 45)
We leave from Laveno Mombello, lake port and town famous for the ceramics factories (in Cerro's ancient Perabò Palace is "Civic Earthenware Collection") Not far from the landing stage, a convenient cableway takes a few minutes to reach the Sasso del Ferro (about 1000 metres above sea level) one of the most striking panoramic spots in the whole of Lombardy.
We proceed southwards to the Eremo of Santa Caterina del Sasso Ballaro (XIII century, property of the Province) in the Leggiuno municipality. The whole complex overlooks the lake and can be reached thanks to a small pier. The itinerary continues through Arolo, Monvalle, to Ispra. It then reaches Ranco, site of the National Transports Museum (entrance is free), that illustrates the evolution of world transport from the Nineteenth century to present days.
By skirting the lake, from Ranco one reaches Angera, already renowned in Roman times, as proven by recent excavations, and a strong Medieval country settlement. Testimony of its splendour remains the imposing fortress that rises in an elevated position, affording an optimal view over the lake.
It belonged to the Visconti and then to the Borromeo families, the latter still being the owners; within this an interesting visit to the Doll and Children's Fashion Museum is possible. We then reach Taino, where Giò Pomodoro's sculpture representing the four cardinal points is situated in the public park. Then, on to Sesto Calende, important centre where the Ticino River flows out of Lake Maggiore to continue its course towards the sea.
Particularly interesting are the Abbey of San Donato (XI century) and the Civic Museum that hosts valuable archaeological findings belonging to the Golasecca civilisation. A few kilometres away, in the town of Somma Lombardo, it is possible to visit the XII century Visconti di San Vito Castle, S.Bernardino's oratory (altar piece by Fiammenghino) and the Madonna della Ghianda Sanctuary.
The itinerary is concluded in Arsago Seprio, that boasts two Romanic age monuments of extreme interest: the S. Vittore Basilica and octagonal-shaped Baptistery.
THROUGH MEDIEVAL VILLAGES, ART AND ANTIQUES
Varese – Castiglione Olona – Castelseprio (km 18)
This is the most interesting itinerary from the artistic viewpoint, endowed as it is with contents and testimonies that narrate the history of this land. We leave from Varese heading south, following the "Varesina" road towards Milan. We'll proceed to Castiglione Olona, a veritable jewel of medieval art, where on the first Sunday of the month, along the characteristic little roads of historical centre, is held the "Fiera del Cardinale", the typical flea and antiques market.
The Collegiate Church and Baptistery are worthy of a visit with the marvellous cycle of frescoes by Masolino da Panicale (1435) and small museum attached; the 1430 Villa Church, built in Brunelleschi style and the Palazzo Branda Castiglioni (1300-1400), ancient residence of Cardinal Branda Castiglioni.
From Castiglione Olona we continue towards Castelseprio: along the way, in Torba (in the Gornate Olona municipality) we can visit the medieval tower of an ancient monastery containing valuable frescoes (XI century). Castelseprio was a Longobard fortress (castrum), built on a previous Roman military settlement; currently, we find the ruins of the imposing fortified walls, of the San Giovanni Evangelista church and of a hexagonal shaped temple.
Outside the walls, deep in the woods, is the small church dedicated to Santa Maria Foris Portas (VII century), notable for its historical-artistic value thanks to precious antique frescoes. The building is property of the Province of Varese.
TRADITION AND TREKKING IN THE QUIET OF THE PRE-ALPS
Luino – Valdumentina – Val Veddasca – Curiglia con Monteviasco (km 16)
Luino, a renowned holiday location, rests at the mouth of the Tresa river that links the Ceresio to the Verbano. The town is the starting point of the itinerary that unfolds in the direction of the Valdumentina valley. Luino is the birthplace of the writer Piero Chiara and the poet Vittorio Sereni; it has an interesting historical centre and is situated on the lakeshore; here we find the XV century Madonna del Carmine church.
Another building worthy of a visit is the oratory of S. Pietro, rebuilt during the XVII and XVIII centuries, with the beautiful Romanic bell tower. Within this, one can view a fresco by Bernardino Luini, a famous XVI century artist.
Proceeding further, on the slopes of Mount Lema (1620 metres) we find Dumenza, destination of numerous nature-loving holidaymakers that appreciate peace and tranquillity: the venue offers interesting excursions over numerous paths, among which is the famous "3V - Via Verde Varesina".
To the left is the deviation towards Agra, a region known for its woods, for the breathtaking panoramas of Lake Maggiore and the neighbouring mountains; to the right is the turn-off for Pradecolo, Mount Lema and Rifugio Campiglio. By continuing straight on, after a few kilometres we reach Curiglia con Monteviasco (650 metres above sea level), an alpine village hugging the mountain.
On foot, up a long stepped pathway, or by making use of a comfortable and fast cableway, from Piero we can reach the village of Monteviasco (924 metres above sea level). These are ideal places to go for beautiful walks along the vast network of local paths or by using the provincial path known as "3V"; besides which, along these paths, one can stop at the characteristic agrotourisms to taste typical goat cheeses, "formaggelle", or "tomini" or decisively home-cured cold-cuts that recall the mountain traditions. The simplicity of the people, the healthy air, the marvellous panoramas and nature's sparkling freshness fully satisfy the tourist.
THE REIGN OF THE “Brutti e Buoni”, BETWEEN PRECIOUS TOBACCO-PIPES AND PAINTING-LIKE VILLAGES
Il Lago di Varese and Valcuvia (km 46)
From Varese we skirt the eastern bank of the Lake of Varese and taking the SP.1 for Gavirate, we reach Voltorre, famous for its church dedicated to San Michele and above all for the adjacent Romanic Cloister, a veritable XI century jewel, belonging to the Province. Along the way there are several factories producing tobacco-pipes, typical local crafts product.
From Gavirate, a town renowned for their "brutti e buoni" (delicate and friable biscuits) we proceed along the national road to Cocquio Trevisago and on to Gemonio, where it is possible to visit the graceful XI century Romanic church of San Pietro (XI century, national monument) and the mill, house-Museum of artist Innocente Salvini as well as the sculptor Floriano Bodini's Museum.
We carry on for Cittiglio (with its Museum dedicated to Alfredo Binda); at the crossroads, we turn right towards the Valcuvia valley. We pass through Casalzuigno were the Villa Della Porta Bozzolo is situated, with marvellous Italian gardens; in the same municipality, towards the mountains, through a steeply climbing road completely hidden in greenery (6 kilometres) one reaches Arcumeggia.
The village presents dry-walled houses, closely linked to each other. The singular nature of the place consists in the frescoed murals on the exterior of these old houses, painted by skilful contemporary artists. In the vicinity is the Duno village with the votive Temple of Italian medical doctors and, at the top of mount San Martino, the partisans' shrine. From the Arcumeggia hamlet we continue for S. Antonio, a location from which one can enjoy a stupendous view over the Verbano and the Alps, and at Nasca we descend towards lake Maggiore: in the vicinity one finds well-known holiday resorts such as Porto Valtravaglia, Castelveccana and Caldè with its fortress. Climbing to Brezzo di Bedero one visits the Parsonage of S.Vittore, re-built in 1173.
The final leg of the itinerary is in Luino. The town is rich in attractive artistic features such as the XV century Madonna del Carmine church, and the Romanic oratory of S. Pietro (reconstructed in the XVII century). The famous Wednesday market has always attracted many visitors to Luino, both Italian and foreign.
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